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Green manuring goes back at
least 3000 years on the continent, and has been enthusiastically adopted
by modern organic gardeners around the World. Whilst it is mainly used
in vegetable rotations it can also be used in initial preparation of
ornamental beds, lawns etc.
Green manures and green cover
crops revolve around three basic concepts: the need to replenish organic
matter in soils, the need for a biologically active, healthy soil, and
the avoidance of bare ground
What is green manuring?
At its simplest green manuring
is the sustainable enrichment of soil by incorporating fresh (or
wilted), green plant material, aiming to :
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Improve soil structure |
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Increase soil biological
activity through adding organic matter to the soil |
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Add soluble nitrate to the
soil (through legumes) from fixing atmospheric nitrogen |
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Increase overall soil
fertility and provide nutrients for subsequent crops |
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Break pest and disease
cycles within a rotation |
What is a green cover crop?
A green cover crop is grown :
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So that the soil is not
left bare and exposed to heavy rain so as to reduce soil erosion |
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So as to reduce nitrate
& other nutrient losses |
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To suppress weed seedling
growth |
A green cover crop can be a
green manure and vice versa, preferably both.
Green manures can also be
grown, or used for :
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Reclaiming an old garden
and raising the soils fertility |
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Helping to prepare
vegetable and ornamental beds |
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Providing material for
composting |
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Providing material for
mulching |
What are the 'costs' of green
manuring ?
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Cost of seed - this varies
depending on the species chosen |
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Time spent in planning
suitable rotations containing green manures |
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Rotations which may require
areas uncropped for a period, possibly a whole season |
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Time and effort involved in
sowing and incorporation |
Types of green manures
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Summer green manures - for
a few weeks between other crops |
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Over-wintering green
manures - sown late summer to prevent soil erosion, suppress weeds
and retain soil nutrients |
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Long term green manures -
sown spring or late summer when reclaiming land as a means of
smothering fresh weed growth and growing organic matter for
improving soil fertility and structure |
Plant type
Legumes (pea and bean family)
As well as adding organic
matter, legumes have the ability to take nitrogen gas from the air and
turn it into nitrogen 'fertiliser' when the green manure decomposes
after incorporation it releases this nitrogen (along with the all other
nutrients it contains) to feed the next crop
Legume green manures, properly
included in a rotation, can provide much of the nitrogen needed by
following crops
Non-legumes
Non-legumes add organic matter
to the soil, but little nitrogen. Cabbage family species should not be
used close in a rotation with cabbage crops to avoid increasing club
root infestation in the soil.
How can I use green manures ?
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To increase soil fertility
- grow a longer term green manure and incorporate into the soil
prior to making the bed |
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There may also be an
opportunity to cut some material for composting, mulching or using
elsewhere in the garden |
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To improve soil structure -
grow any bulky green manure and incorporate at the end of the winter |
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To suppress weeds grow a
longer term green manure, particularly for smothering over-wintering
weeds - grow a fast-growing short-term green manure which will
smother seedlings |
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To prevent soil erosion
avoid leaving ground uncropped and exposed to rainfall by growing an
over-wintering green manure to protect the soil surface |
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To reduce nutrient losses
avoid leaving ground uncropped and exposed to rainfall by growing an
over-wintering green manure to protect the soil surface |
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To break pest and disease
cycles grow a green manure unrelated to crops either side of it in a
rotation |
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Consider having longer term
green manure 'fallow' breaks in a rotation, particularly legumes
which add nitrogen |
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As compostable material cut
material from longer term green manures and compost it grow a bulky
green manure for composting rather than incorporation |
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Use spare ground for
growing material for composting |
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As a mulching material cut
material from longer term green manures and use as a mulch |
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Grow a bulky green manure
for composting and then mulching |
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Use spare ground for
growing material for composting and then mulching |
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Use grass clippings as a
mulch |
How do I incorporate green
manures ?
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Do not just bury a green
manure by digging it in |
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Cut a green manure close to
the soil, chop it well with a spade and, over a period of about 2
weeks, fork in until it is incorporated in the top 15cm (6inches) of
soil. |
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Allow the cut material to
wilt before starting to incorporate it. |
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Make sure the roots are
buried, to avoid re-growth |
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Gather green manure
material from elsewhere, allow it to wilt and then chop it well with
a spade and, over a period of about 2 weeks, fork in until it is
incorporated in the top 15cm (6inches) of soil |
Green manures suitable for the
UK
Always take your climate and
soil into account when choosing appropriate green manuring techniques.
Cooler summers, mild wet winters and heavy soils will dictate possible
options.
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Species |
Sow |
Growing
period |
Soil type |
Nitrogen
fixer |
Other
information |
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Winter tares(vetches) |
Jul – Sep |
up to Oct, or over
winter |
heavy, not too acid |
yes |
hardy |
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Mustard |
Mar – Sep |
2 - 8 weeks |
moist, fertile |
no |
can carry clubroot |
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Hungarian grazing rye |
Aug – Nov |
autumn – spring |
most |
no |
hardy |
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Alsike clover |
Apr – Aug |
few months to 2 years |
damp, acid OK |
yes |
short-term perennial |
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Field beans |
Sep – Nov |
over winter |
damp, heavy |
yes |
cut before flowering
don't stop weeds |
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Buckwheat |
Apr – Aug |
2 - 3 months |
tolerates poor |
no |
not hardy at all |
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Phacelia |
August |
autumn – spring |
Not too heavy |
No |
Not always hardy |
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Red clover |
Early August |
Any time, useful long
term |
Avoid acid, add lime |
Yes |
Sow thickly, cut and
mulch regularly |
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